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| the 90's glamor shot trend |
Trends; we experience them everyday in our fashion, our work, our music, and our tastes in general. Rarely do we realize they are a trend, until looking back at old photos and ask "what was I thinking?" But, do you realize that we have landscaping trends; trends that sweep entire communities and exist much longer than bad our bad haircuts or fashion statements. Our landscaping trends tend to be so established that they become customary practice, everywhere. Often these practices create more work for us and, therefore, more loathing of landscape and yard work (which can be one of the most enjoyable hobbies around).
The Crepe Murder Trend:
A landscape trend that seems to be most prevalent this time of year in our landscapes, is pruning. One specific tree is the target of a bad pruning trend...the Crepe Myrtle. All throughout our communities they are "nubbed" back (not to be gory, but they look like a hand that has lost fingers...thus the term "nubbed"). They are pruned as if they were a shrub in dire need of renewal pruning b/c of disease. As it turns out, a Crepe Myrtle is in fact a tree, a healthy tree in most cases, and does not need to be renewal pruned every February. The Texas A&M Aggies say it best with the diagram below:
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| http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/earthkind/landscape/proper-pruning-techniques/ |
"Nubbing" your Crepe Myrtle is not a bad thing, nor will it kill your tree. It is just a bad hair cut that you continue to think is the best looking thing around. If anything, "nubbing" just creates more work for you, the homeowner. Strategic pruning can save you a lot of time and effort.
Look at pruning this way...after the holidays and a winter season of soups and stews, all of our pants are a bit tight...well the same rings true for our shrubs in the landscape. After a year of growth, their canopies are a bit tight and need some room to grow for the next year. The image below is a Crepe Myrtle that had been abandoned downtown for a few years. In stead of "nubbing" it, we simply opened up the canopy to encourage light to stimulate new growth for an overall healthier tree.
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| Crepe Myrtle before pruning |
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| Crepe Myrtle after pruning |
Landscape pruning in general is not a daunting task, although it may seem that way. I'm going to break it down into bullet points to keep it as simple as possible. Its not that we ever mean to neglect our landscape, but the thought of how, when, and why to even tackle pruning just seems like too much to bear.
Reasons to Prune:
1. Control plant size or form
2. Remove damage
3. Prevent potential damage (caused by overlapping branches, poor crotch angles, and disease)
4. Stimulate new growth (rejuvenate old plants, fill in bare areas, etc.)
5. Increase fruit & flower production
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| Make angle cuts 1/4" above bud or crotch |
1. Cuts should be made 1/4" above a bud or to crotch (lateral branch)
2. Cuts should be made at angles
3. "May Rule" : If the plant blooms before May 1, prune immediately after flowering has ended. If plant blooms after May 1, prune during dormant season. Plants that bloom before May 1, bloom on old wood, while plants that bloom after May 1, bloom on new wood.
What to use:
As in all cases, the right tool makes the job much easier...
- handsnips for the smallest branches
- loppers for branches > 0.75" in Diameter
- hand saw for limbs > 1.5" in Diameter
Always start by sharpening the tool with a file. A sharp tool insures a clean cut and diminishes the chance for tearing of the bark which can lead to disease.
Types of Pruning:
Thinning:
Thinning is used for a more informal/natural look, for shrubs with a larger leaf size, and for overgrown shrubs.
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| thinning before and after |
Shearing:
Shearing is used for a more formal look, for slow growing shrubs with small leaves. Plant should be sheared to be narrower at the top than at the bottom.
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| the wrong method of shearing vs. the right method of shearing |
Cane Plant Pruning: (Nandina, Forsythia, etc..)
Remove 1/3 of existing canes and make cuts within 6" of the ground.
Renewal Pruning:
Renewal pruning is used for diseased or severely overgrown plants and involves cutting the plant back within 6-12" of the ground. This is best done right before the 1st flush of growth in the spring. DO NOT USE THIS TECHNIQUE ON BOXWOODS OR JUNIPERS.
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| steps in tree pruning |
Proper tree pruning is done in 3 steps to prevent tearing of the bark:
1. Make a cut 12" from trunk on underside of limb, that cuts into 1/4 of the entire diameter of limb.
2. Make a complete cut 18-24" from the trunk on the upperside of the limb.
3. Remove 12-24" of stub to shoulder of limb.
Where to begin?
1. Determine what type of plant you are pruning. What category of pruning does it fall into?
2. Decide on the size you want to prune it to, visualize this size before you begin pruning.
3. If thinning, start with overlapping branches within the canopy, suckers at the base or shoots that have run astray over the past year.
4. SLOWLY & DELIBERATELY work through the canopy until desired size is reached.
When to prune?
Now is an excellent time to prune as we are getting closer and closer to that first flush of spring growth. Here are other times to prune:
- Corrective pruning due to injury or dead tissue should be done as soon as evident
- Avoid pruning from August 15 until plants are dormant
- Most pruning should be done during the dormant season or immediately after flowering.
The beauty of a trend is that it is something we can look back on, laugh and move on. While improper pruning is not as humorous as a 90's Glamor shot, the extra work it causes is. Let's break the bad trends in landscape pruning and save us all some time in our landscaping future.
For a more in-depth explanation on pruning, visit:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/earthkind/landscape/proper-pruning-techniques/
Glamor shot courtesy of:
youremyfavoritetoday.blogspot.com
